starting this blog was a new year's resolution for 2011. 2 months and 28 days later, aqui lo tenemos. inspired by 5 years costa rica and counting, surrounded by passionate friends medium-old and new, wanting to feel close to my otha brothas and mostly sistas despite space and time, this blog is born from a feeling that i might have a thing or two to say that maybe a person or two might find interesting, or at least entertaining. the perspective i'm offering is one of adventurous surfer girl with a head on her shoulders, stuck between dreams of saving the world and equally unrealistic dreams of giving it all up for a simple life on a sick right point somewhere relatively undiscovered. seeking a balance between fantasy un-realities whose combined realization i think i'll exhaust all possibilities to experience, if even for some fleeting instant in time.
albeit with the goals of connection, contribution, transformation and evolution, motivated by love, life, surf, peace and passion, i'm still not sure what form this forum may take. maybe this will be my only post; maybe i'll find a fountain of things to say and the energy of the cosmos will conspire for this to be a vehicle of divine inspiration. or maybe it'll find some balance between the extremes i seem to always be chasing and escaping at once. vamos a ver que pasa...
tonight i'll start easy, from a contented place of peaceful solitude. energy saver bulbs softened by pequeno mundo candles and silence save the clicks of the keyboard on my giant beat-up toshiba, which i'm generally embarrassed to own in certain company. for some reason i usually can't explain, and as many of you are well aware, i'm fighting a few tears as i embark upon this opportunity to escape a caracolita privacy i most typically enjoy to maybe share publicly things that i'm not even great at acknowledging sometimes, let alone expressing. i'll try to spare you inane details that make you wish you had those 10 minutes of your life back post-post. and i promise to most def keep it real.
last surf: hermosa, la almendra, mid-incoming tide afternoon session yesterday, to be remembered by 2 over the falls beatings, 2 cute florida boys, 1 okayish right, dropping in on someone else's left that i shouldn't have, followed by the defeat of a few heavy sets coupled with late-onset goma, resulting in the boogie board paddle in of disgrace. not the weekend-ending story i usually like to swallow before driving back to the new digs en chepe, pero asi es la vida. it can't always be epic matapalo or la carola by your onesies. the rest of the weekend was lovely, my first go at escondida - small and crowded bumping rails with VIP guilas and well-to-do chepenos, i ended up getting worked on the inside and picturing my head smashing on a rock blue crush-style, more than dropping in on anything to email my michis about. hermosa saturday and sunday mornings saved the weekend, though, with super-clean head-high glass around high-tide both days. good vibes, great weather, and i even connected a few backside turns that had been slacking as of late.
some rad pros were in town partying and art-ing after planting tons of trees and hanging out with indigenous tribes on an etnies save-the-world trip. although i'm not what you'd call your typical pro-ho, i will say it was refreshing to see these guys stoked on non-surf life as much as they rip all over the world and get paid for it. shout-outs to grizzly freudian beards, hippy parents and good convo despite the questionable and blaring bar tunes at tsunami. he even complimented my good luck bikini ;)
pura vida tuanis,
tarantulita
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